10 Reasons Why I Love Grand Canyon in Winter

Mather Point, Grand Canyon

One of my favorite winter destinations is Grand Canyon. Though the North Rim is closed, and commercial river trips are on hiatus till warmer months, the South Rim is open year-round. Historic Grand Canyon Village and its surrounding woodlands are magical in winter, and here’s why:

1. Fewer crowds. And best of all, fewer bus tours, which can make a summer day seem like a visit to a theme park. In winter, Grand Canyon Village feels like a village, bringing an air of intimacy to this vast natural wonder.

2. Hermit Road is shuttle-free. Don’t get me wrong: I love the South Rim’s free shuttle system, really, I do. But at the risk of sounding environmentally unfriendly, it’s liberating and peaceful to be able to explore Hermit Road overlooks without the noisy beasts. (Maybe I’m still a bit steamed that Congress killed the light rail system that was once slated for the South Rim.)

3. Relaxed dining. During winter months, it’s easy to get a dinner reservation at El Tovar. No lines or pagers. No having to eat at 4 p.m. or 9:45 p.m. The ambiance is romantic, the menu elegant.

4. Brilliant sunsets. With the sun at its lowest angle, the light is especially juicy on winter afternoons, and every sunset is a performance. Canyon walls change from gold to orange to pink to purple before the curtain falls.

5. Late sunrises. This means even a sleepy bear like me can roll out and watch golden light spread like honey over the canyon.

Near Hermits Rest

6. Snowplay. The winter of 2011-12 has been dry, but most winters, storms deliver snow that lingers at higher spots like Grandview or near the Arizona Trail, great for snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, or snowball fights.

7. Wildlife. Winter is an especially good time for watching the local fauna. Deer and elk wander close to the village, and ponderosa pines shelter juncos, nuthatches, and chickadees.

8. Fireplaces. Another environmentally incorrect sentiment, but I love sitting by a warm fire after a snowy walk along the Rim Trail. You can toast your tootsies in El Tovar’s Rendezvous Room, by the huge stone hearth at Hermit’s Rest, or in Bright Angel Lodge’s inglenook or history room, where Mary Colter’s geological fireplace can be found.

9. Great hiking. Though the upper sections of trails might be icy, requiring crampons, the inner canyon is temperate and blissfully quiet. Hiking down Hermit Trail in January, I encountered only six other people. (Always check trail conditions before setting out.)

10. Bargains. During winter months, canyon lodges often discount room rates or offer special promotions.

Of course, at the rim’s 7,000-foot elevation, winter weather can be unpredictable. Fortunately, the National Park Service’s website—a treasure trove of information—includes current weather conditions. And the unexpected can be the best part of any trip. One winter visit, I was treated to a rare inversion, when the canyon fills with clouds and only the highest peaks are visible—an awesome sight.